Features

Big Food Court Planned for Gourmet Ghetto

By JAKOB SCHILLER
Friday February 13, 2004

A new gourmet food court will soon occupy the empty space at 1509 Shattuck Avenue that has sat empty for almost two years after the Dale Sanford electronics store moved out. The project, which will house take-out spin-offs of some of Berkeley’s more well-known restaurants, is meant to bolster business and add another touch of flavor to an area well known for its food.  

“We’ve been looking at what the community needs,” said Soheyl Modarressi, the building manager, longtime city developer and North Berkeley resident. “Rather than just having another clothing store we wanted to bring in some more excitement.” 

Already signed up to move in are Kirala, south Berkeley’s well known sushi restaurant and Cesar, the popular tapas-bar started by ex-Chez Panisse manager Richard Mazerra, who has agreed to help Modarressi as a consultant for the project. On the waiting list are a number of other restaurants that are trying to meet the qualifications Modarressi and Mazerra have set out for the food. Other shops the pair are currently considering include a rotisserie and chocolate store. Several local wine producers have also been approached about possibly creating a small co-op space.  

“We’re not going to rent to just anyone,” said Modarressi. 

Accompanying the food stands will be a larger section also run by Cesar that will offer other products from Spain, which according to Mazerra is the new hot spot in Europe. Besides offering olive oil, spices and vinagers, the shop hopes to have a big selection of cured meats, especially jamons, or cured ham.  

“Spain is coming on big time,” said Mazerra. “People didn’t even know what tapas were until recently.” 

The take-out option is a spin that promoters hope will appeal to residents who have never had that option at their favorite restaurants. Customers accustomed to Kirala’s long lines will now be able to pop into the court, buy their sushi (which will be made fresh) and take it home. Those caught up in the growing tapas craze will be able to do the same. Modarressi and Mazerra are considering plans for a garden area in the back with a possible fountain and garden store. The area which used to be the delivery dock for the electronics store is envisioned as an urban park according to Mazzera. 

Modarressi, who has lived in North Berkeley since the ‘70s, says he has a vested interest in maintaining the spirit of the area known for its high quality food. With the Cheeseboard on one side and Chez Panisse on the other, and the original Peet’s coffee up the hill, the food court is meant to complement these restaurants by adding extra options to draw customers. 

Because the store will only be take-out with no sit-down options Modarressi did not have to apply for a restaurant permit, avoiding the hassle of acquiring parking which is close to impossible to find in the area. Instead a retail use permit, like the one originally granted for the building, was all he needed. 

Neighboring restaurants are happy to see plans for a new food spot. Lisa Bruzzone, a member of the Cheeseboard Co-op, said she had not heard any specifics about the court but was thrilled to have more food in the area.  

“We’re delighted to have more activity in the neighborhood to keep it more alive,” she said. 

Bruzzone, who has been with the Cheeseboard for years and has seen the transformations the North Shattuck area has gone through, hopes the new court will enliven an area that, while not in a decline, is not what it used to be.  

Back in the late 1970s, according to Bruzzone, North Shattuck was the premier spot for restaurants and specialty food products. In the meantime, while the restaurants have survived, several of the food stores have gone out of business, including Pig By the Tail and Chacuterie. 

According to Heather Hensley, director of the North Shattuck Business Association, the food court idea was chosen and encouraged over several other ideas as a way to do exactly what Buzzone would like to see.  

“Food will always be the strong point of the area,” said Hensley. “They [the North Shattuck restaurants and cafes] spearheaded the food revolution [in Berkeley] and we want to make sure they can continue to compete.” 

Modarressi, who has also led other development projects including the Oxford Center building west of the UC Berkeley campus, stresses his commitment to the North Shattuck community and says his motivation for the project sprang from the same desire—to revitalize the area. 

“We are very slow moving developers that committed to the long-term,” he said. “We’re not aggressive. We are going to keep [the project] very local and manage it in a way that will serve the community.”