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Finally, a really cool assignment! I was asked to be a judge at the Third Annual Crabby Chef Competition. 

Hosted by Spenger’s Fresh Fish Grotto, with portions of the proceeds going to the Berkeley Historical Society, I prepared for my responsibilities by eating nothing and drinking only a large Peet’s Mocha (with no whipped cream) many hours before the event. 

And it WAS many hours. Held two Sundays ago at 2 p.m. in the Spenger’s parking lot on Fourth Street, I had to wait an extra 60 minutes because I forgot about the demise of Daylight Savings. I killed time by drinking an Anchor Steam, and interviewing some of the competing chefs. 

I spoke with Peter Scholte, Executive Sous Chef at Trader Vic’s and newly arrived to the United States from Holland, via Norway. He told me he was planning to prepare Pake Crab, a stir fry classic from the famous restaurant located near the Emeryville Marina. “A lot of fish in Norway,” he said and I nodded in agreement, not because I know much about the fish in Norway, but because the beer was going to my head. 

Next I spoke with Caffé Venezia’s Head Chef Cindy Deetz and Sautee Cook Nicole Grin. They had decorated their table with seaweed and sunflowers and they were the only competitors dressed, head to toe, in black. 

“You must be hot,” I said. 

“Compared to being in a cramped kitchen, this is heaven,” answered Cindy. “We’re getting ready to make a seafood dumpling soup with lobster, crab and the secret ingredient.” 

The competition allows the chefs 20 minutes to prepare a crab dish. They bring all their own ingredients and cooking equipment. Spenger’s provides the burners, two cooked crabs and a secret ingredient which the participants are not given until the competition begins. Every chef I spoke to had several alternative recipes planned, depending on the mystery ingredient. 

Charles Hochman, Executive Chef at California Cafe in Walnut Creek, was planning a crab and tuna “free-form” sushi with a Thai hot and sweet glaze, served with a mango and papaya salad. Lalimes Executive Chef Steve Jaramillo was scheming about something Spanish. “Maybe a tapa or a fajita,” he said, but I could tell he was purposely vague, not wanting to give anything away.  

Le Theatre’s Christine Mullen said she had brought along her lucky charm, Dan Rauch, also a cook at Le Theatre (at the old Gertie’s Seafood location). “He’s a Cancer,” she said with champion-like confidence. “The Sign of the Crab.”  

Brent Novotny, Executive Chef at Skates on the Bay, was defending last year’s first place status by doing something quite daring. “This is kind of a secret,” he whispered. “I’m going to make a lemon and roasted tomato sorbet to go with a chilled crab cocktail.” But like everyone else, he was waiting to find out the missing ingredient.  

A little after 2 p.m., organizer Tom Walton of Fortune Public Relations asked the judges to take their seats. Seven of us gathered around a small table covered with paper plates, napkins and plastic cutlery. Then Emcee David Michael Cane, who with his wife Rachel co-hosts the nationally syndicated food, wine and travel radio show “A Matter of Taste” (Saturdays KYCY-AM), told the chefs to get ready. Each was handed the secret potion, a bag of ripe green avocados. The cooking began! 

While the chefs chopped, minced, fried and boiled away, I met my fellow judges: several columnists from local newspapers, a travel writer, and Wade Daniels, Regional Correspondent for Nation’s Restaurant News. 

I sat next to Eric Schewe, Editor-in-Chief of the Daily Californian. 

“What brings you here?” I asked. 

“Crab,” he said. 

I walked around, watching the cooks at work. Some were diligent, their heads down, earnestly preparing their entrees, but others were gregarious, talking to the crowd, handing out samples, tasting as they cooked. 

Todd Kniess, Chef/Owner of Bistro Liaison on Shattuck Avenue, worked alone while his very pregnant wife, Natalie, watched. “When are you due?” I asked. “Any minute now,” she answered. 

Executive Chef Neil Marquis of the Pleasanton Hotel wore lobster-decorated draw string pants and Michael Zeiter, Executive Chef of Postino (located in Lafayette) sported a Cal Berkeley cap. I wondered if that would influence my fellow judge, Eric.  

The Rattle Cans, a San Francisco-based blues band, played music while the chefs cooked. The crowd milled around drinking beer, eating crab cakes and shrimp cocktails from the Spenger’s booth and the Pacific Seafood “Roadshow” an 18-wheeler, walk-in, refrigerated truck that was packed with all kinds of seafood delights.  

When the drums rolled, indicating that the cooking was over, I went back to my seat and was served fourteen different dishes, all of them with crab and avocado, but there the similarities ended. 

Paul Despotakis, Sous Chef of San Francisco-based McCormick & Kuleto’s, served up Asian wontons stuffed with cream cheese, shrimp, scallops and fennel. Executive Chef Frank Palmer of the Duck Club (Lafayette) presented an entrée of crab-stuffed trout wrapped in prosciutto. Kevin Weinberg, chef/owner of the Walnut Creek Yacht Club, gave us the final sample. “A sun-baked Cuban cocktail,” he said, referring not to his gas burner, but to the heat provided by the unnaturally hot weather.  

I was stuffed, but I had performed my duty with serious integrity. I marked my ballot, judging the chefs on presentation, creativity and taste. I gave thumbs up to the California Cafe sushi boys, but it was the stuffed trout prepared by the Duck Club that won.  

Better luck next year, foodies. I drove through West Berkeley slowly, and when I got home I lay on my stomach on the couch and went to sleep. It was a lot of hard work, but someone had to do it. I’ll probably just lie here quietly until next year, when my expertise will most definitely be needed again.