Election Section

Metamorphosis. Dull caterpillar, easily overlooked, to striking butterfly. Insect Biology 101? No—Dublin. Now a vibrant, energized city, moving forward economically and culturally. Today visitors are buffeted by stimuli—masses of people, miles of traffic, a cacophony of sounds. So much to do: museums, galleries, historic sites, cafes, pubs, and clubs.  

So there I was, a writer in search of a story. Where should I go? What’s my theme? How can I connect with this eclectic city? What will I write? 

Finding something to write about was never a problem with Ireland’s abundance of great writers; Irish literature was integral to Dublin’s history and tradition. From the Book of Kells in the ninth century, through the cultural movements of both the 19th and 20th centuries, Ireland produced more than two dozen writers of renown, including four Nobel prizewinners. 

A theme emerged. To journey through Dublin. To celebrate Irish literature and poesis—the act of writing itself. 

I headed north, crossing the River Liffey. Will the flow of its currents inspire the flow of my prose? My destination was the Dublin Writers Museum, established to commemorate and promote interest in Irish literature and its writers. The two museum rooms in the beautifully restored Georgian mansion were already quite full by 10:30 a.m., one half hour after opening. Plugged in to the excellent audiotape included with the entrance fee, I chronologically traced the greats of literature: Jonathan Swift of Gulliver’s Travels, Dracula’s Bram Stoker, playwrights George Bernard Shaw and Oscar Wilde. Using rare manuscripts, diaries, letters, photographs and posters, the exhibits continue through the 20th century’s Abbey Theatre and Samuel Beckett, James Joyce and Sean O’Casey. These Irish authors continued to write about their home, especially Dublin, even while in exile, their works censored by the strong influence of the Catholic Church and Ireland’s turbulent political history. 

The quality of these exhibits and the elegance of the setting set the mood for inspiration, as well as the need for sustenance. The Christopher Café, downstairs, nourished my mind and body. In my experience, museums, historic sites, and refectories provide excellent homemade food at very reasonable prices. Seated at the outdoor Zen Garden, enjoying a pot of tea and a fresh scone, what else, I happily planned my day. 

Across the road at the Garden of Remembrance I savored the warm air and the sense of peace. Considering Dublin’s busy pace, it’s nice to know that areas of the city have been set aside for greenery and relief. Here, as well as at St. Stephen’s Green and Merrion Square, landscaped grounds, bright flowers, fountains, sculpture, and comfortable benches attract those wanting to pause in their busy schedules, whether at work or at play. This small, attractive garden was opened in 1966, 50 years after the Easter Uprising, and is dedicated to the men and women who lost their lives fighting for Irish freedom. An ideal spot for people watching and character study. 

Walking back toward the River Liffey I came upon a scene as colorful and delightful as the garden I just left. The Moore Street Market is a rainbow of fresh fruits, vegetables, and cut flowers, accompanied by the cries of their vendors. Bright red tomatoes, purple plums, multihued peppers, peaches and nectarines blushed by the sun. My feeling of discovery was magnified by its unexpectedness. A chance meeting between two characters or a secret rendezvous? 

Writers, books, library. The National Library of Ireland is housed in a magnificent building designed by Sir Thomas Deane and contains first editions of every major Irish writer as well as copies of almost every book ever published in Ireland. The domed first floor Reading Room is open to the public. It featured prominently in James Joyce’s epic novel Ulysses so it seems fitting that “James Joyce and Ulysses” is on exhibit here. The exhibition focuses on the artistic processes Joyce employed in writing his masterpiece. Notebooks, manuscripts, posters, photographs and the first copy of Ulysses ever published show that Dublin in 1904 was as vibrant and colorful as it is today. Using digital technology, visitors can magnify sections and turn pages of this book, an intimate experience bringing Ulysses 100 years forward. It was fantastic to see the pages of Joyce’s notes, scribbled randomly on paper, with items crossed out or underlined; it was almost like watching the author at work. 

Eighteen episodes, each in a different style and each tied into Homer’s Odyssey. All taking place in Edwardian Dublin on one day, June 16, 1904. So much has changed for this country yet this one book remains such a strong influence that each year Bloomsday celebrations revisit these immortal characters as they move through Dublin. 

Throughout Ireland’s recent history and on to the present, Trinity College looms as the center of learning. Forty acres in the city center, the stately buildings of Ireland’s oldest college remind us of the past while the bustle in Parliament Square brings us into the present – the atmosphere is alive. The line is long for Trinity’s most famous archive, the 9th century illuminated gospels, the Book of Kells. Beautifully displayed in the Old Library, “Turning Darkness into Light” and the barrel-vaulted ceiling of the Long Room exert their pull, making it hard to leave. This lavishly decorated book, representing so many hours of painstaking work, inspires one to spend a few more hours with pen and paper. 

Outside, Fellow’s Square is a natural gathering place for people of all ages. The large, green lawn ringed with comfortable benches called me to sit for a while with my journal, enjoy a coffee, people watch, and reflect. Next to me, two elderly ladies sat chatting away. What changes they must have witnessed here over the years! 

A city tour of perpetual motion is not the ticket for enjoyment. To know an area requires you to be in one place long enough to absorb its molecules. As I wrote in my journal, I thought back to Dublin in 1904, when Trinity College featured largely in Joyce’s tome, and how today it remains a driving force in city life. 

To ease the mind and the hand, I headed over to the Old Jameson Distillery. An audiovisual presentation began my education: Irish whiskey is “Uisce Beatha,” the water of life, and its distilling process is quite different from that of scotch or bourbon. The lively tour through the old distillery and whiskey tasting at the Jameson bar left me ready to tackle any writer’s block.  

Temple Bar, a warren of narrow streets and alleyways, at times appears to have been taken over by the young, becoming, in a sense, their playground. Restaurants, pubs and nightspots are present in large numbers, but the arts are equally represented in craft shops, film centers and galleries. At the Gallery of Photography I experienced a meeting of two arts—that of writing and photography. In an exhibit of over 75 haunting black and white photographs, Erich Hartman revisited Joyce’s Dublin, in 1964. For his journey of discovery Hartmann searched out every location from Ulysses, taking over 3000 images. His goal was to understand the city that inspired Joyce while as the same time repelling him. 

At the National Photographic Archive, “Fadographs of a Yestern Scene”, by Robert French, documented Dublin as Joyce experienced it at the turn of the century. French captured the everyday life of all strata of society, from the mansions of Merrion Square to the poverty of the inner city slums. Once again, the profound effect of Joyce’s Ulysses cannot be denied and is evident up through the present.  

On my final day in Dublin, I headed out to the coast. It was time for the sea breezes to rearrange the muddle of facts crowded into my mind. My destination was village of Howth, nine miles from Dublin. Aptly named, from the Norse “hoved” meaning headland, Howth Head dominates northern Dublin Bay. Since medieval times into the present, the waters have provided a living in this lovely coastal setting. 

The DART train from Dublin left me steps from Howth’s dominant attraction, its harbor, which supports a large fishing fleet. Always attracted to working ports and anxious for a walk without the need to sidestep crowds, I explored the West Pier. Here were the buildings and storehouses supporting the commercial side of Howth’s economy, ship chandlers and fresh fish markets doing brisk business, as well as fishermen at work. 

To reach the East Pier I walked along Howth Village past a multitude of cafes and restaurants and a few galleries and craft shops. At Maud’s Café I indulged in a favorite—a fresh prawn sandwich. Restored, I was ready to continue. 

The East Pier acts as a breakwater to Balscadden Bay and the Irish Sea, while forming a sheltered marina for the many pleasure craft moored here. The brisk winds off the water cleared my mind as I walked down this long pier. This would be a great place to write, protected by the sea wall. At pier’s end stood the lighthouse, its attractive red trim vibrant against the industrial colors of the boats. Across the channel, Ireland’s Eye, a small island once the site of a 6th century monastery. 

A coastal walk provided further spectacular views of the bay, the Irish Sea, and the heather topped rocky headland. I followed the trail toward Bailey Lighthouse and a Martello Tower, bringing me, once again, to Ulysses. Yes, even this headland and tower featured prominently in Joyce’s far-reaching novel. 

Back in Dublin, I joined the crowds crossing against the light, in defiance of the endless traffic. Moving forward. One hand reaching out to the future, the other holding steadily to the past. My journey complete; literary Dublin alive and well. 

Where to stay: 

Eliza Lodge: 23/24 Wellington Quay, Temple Bar, Dublin 2. (011) 353-1-6718044, http://dublinlodge.com. Doubles $120 per night. 

Hotel Saint George: 7 Parnell Sq. E, Northside, 1. (011) 353-1-8745611. Doubles from $100 per night. 

What to do: 

Dublin Writers Museum: 18 Parnell Sq. N, Northside. (011) 353-1-8722077. www.visitdublin.com. Adults $8. 

Garden of Remembrance: Parnell Sq., Northside National Library/ James Joyce and Ulysses: Kildaire St., Southside. (011) 353-01-6618811. www.nli.ie. Free.  

Trinity College/ The Book of Kells: College Green, Dublin 2. (011) 353-1-6082320. www.tcd.ie/library/kells.htm. Free admission to college grounds. Admission to Library $7 adults.  

Student-led Trinity Tours meet inside front gate; $10 includes entry to Book of Kells. (011) 353-01-6082320. 

Old Jameson Distillery: Bow St., Dublin West. 011 353 01 8072355. www.irish-whiskey-trail.com. Adults $7. 

Gallery of Photography: Meeting House square. S, Temple Bar. (011) 353-01-6714654. www.irish-phtography.com. Free. 

National Photographic Archive: Meeting House Sq., Temple Bar. (011) 353-01-6030371. www.nli.ie. Free. 

Historic Walking Tours of Dublin: 2 hour walking tours of city. (011) 353-01-8780227. Adults $12. 

For more information: 

www.irishabroad.com and www.irishsights.com. 

›