Election Section

Q: Olivia asks: Every time I run the dishwasher I’ve got to stand by the sink with a cup to bail the water out that comes up and drain it into the adjacent sink. If I don’t, the sink and dishwasher will overflow. The water comes up on the side of the sink where the garbage disposal is. We’ve never used the disposal because it’s been broken since we’ve moved here some weeks ago, but I’m not sure this should affect the way the dishwasher drains, should it? Also, the water never completely drains after running. There’s always a small pool in the dishwasher and a small collection in the sink that does not recede. Is there anything I can do to fix this problem? 

A: This is definitely one that you can fix. The sink is flooding because the disposal and its drain are clogged. Water leaves the dishwasher through a rubber hose that travels up under the sink to a device called an “air gap.” The air gap is a vent that equalizes air pressure so that the water can easily drain out of the dishwasher without air-pressure resistance. From the air gap a second hose travels into the disposal. Once in the disposal the water from the dishwasher is drained into the sewer system (the same place that the other side of the sink drains into). If the water has made it into your sink, it means that the lines to the disposal are working fine and that the drain from the disposal is clogged. Remove the disposal and the associated drain. Clear the drain, install a new disposal and you can start using that cup for drinking instead of bailing. 

By the way, you can eliminate the disposal, but it will probably cost less to replace it. There is a ring under the sink right at the drain that can be gripped with a small Phillips screwdriver. A quick tug and the disposal will fall out. And that’s all there is to it. 

Q: Tony asks: I am getting ready to stain my deck and would like a natural finish that will last as long as possible. What is the best product to use? 

A: We suggest that you use a high-quality penetrating oil finish. Oil restores the natural resins that give wood its natural beauty and prevents cracking, cupping and checking. Be sure that the oil finish contains a mildewcide and ultraviolet protection. Plan to spend about $20 to $25 per gallon. 

As with painting, the key to a lasting deck finish lies with the preparation. If the decking is new and is not kiln dried, allow the material to air dry for a few weeks since “green” lumber will prevent the finish from penetrating. If the decking has been in place for a while, it should be thoroughly scrubbed with TSP and rinsed with fresh water. A pressure washer can make easy work of the process. After washing the deck you might also consider using a deck brightener (wood bleach) to restore the natural color of the wood. Sanding might even be required if the deck has been neglected. 

Next, working in the shade during a cool time of day, apply a thin coat of the penetrating oil finish using a sheepskin pad or a short nap roller.  

Use a clean terry cloth rag to wipe off any excess, and don’t allow the material to puddle. Apply a second thin coat after the first has had the opportunity to be fully absorbed — usually after several hours or the following day. Be sure to apply plenty of finish to the cut ends of the decking. They are especially vulnerable to damage. 

Finally, a light touchup coat each year will make your deck the envy of the neighborhood. 

Q. Barbara asks: We have a crack forming on our cement fountain. It shows both inside and outside the bowl. It doesn’t leak yet. How can I seal it before we spring a leak? 

A. First, drain the water from the fountain. Use an old chisel along with a wire brush to remove any loose material along the length of the crack, wash with a mild detergent and rinse with fresh water. Once the concrete has dried, inject the crack at the inside of the fountain with epoxy filler. 

No action should be necessary at the exterior unless you wish to conceal the crack. If so, clean the outside as suggested above, and apply a latex caulk. Use a damp sponge to wipe away the excess caulking.