Features

The project we are about to detail is so simple you might decide to go into business for yourself. 

We’re talking about the installation of a prefabricated wall niche. They not only are attractive but they also allow you to utilize dead space in a wall for a display platform for flowers, art, sculptures, statuary, religious items and more. 

There are a few tricks you will need to know to ensure a smooth installation. But, the project is easy: 

• Cut a rough opening in the wallboard. 

• Apply adhesive to the wallboard. 

• Mount the niche in the opening. 

• Nail it in place with finish nails. 

• Caulk the nail holes. 

Except for the few precautions that follow, that is all there is to it. 

The real trick is accomplished in the planning. Most wall niches are made to fit in the empty space that exists between wall studs. The empty area (or wall cavity) between any two studs is known as the “bay” or “stud bay.” This cavity between floor or ceiling joist would be known as the “joist bay” and between rafters — you guessed it — the “rafter bay.” 

Wall studs normally are spaced at either 16 inches or 24 inches on center. If the spacing is 16 inches, the stud-bay clearance (distance between studs) will be 14 1/2 inches. If the studs are spaced at 24 inches, the distance, stud-to-stud, will be 22 1/2 inches. The niche you choose should be purchased to fit your particular stud spacing. 

Yes, you can install a niche made for a smaller 14 1/2-inch bay into a larger 22 1/2-inch bay, but you will have to do a little framing that could turn the project into a weekend of work. 

Keep in mind that not all stud bays are empty. They can contain electrical wiring, plumbing pipes and vents, to name a few things. Also, keep in mind that a wall has two sides and you will want to study both of them before cutting. Why look on the other side? By surveying its surface you often can tell what’s inside. A wall switch or receptacle is a dead giveaway that electric wiring is nearby. An intersecting wall on the opposite side guarantees that the chosen stud bay is not empty. Such a configuration requires the wall being intersected to have partition framing. Sometimes you can get around the wiring, but you won’t ever get around a partition connection. 

The most important tool for this project will be a stud-finder. One that also checks for sheet-metal ducting, plumbing pipes and electrical wiring is best for this task. If there is a sink or shower valve on the other side of the wall, there will be a valve or a vent pipe in the wall. If a stove exists, there might be a gas line or larger electric wire in your way. Look in the attic to see if anything is penetrating the top of the wall. No penetrations from the attic or subarea are good indications, but not proof positive. 

Why all the precautions? Most stud bays are empty. However, you shouldn’t arbitrarily start removing drywall. A diagnosis first can save dollars later. 

Once you’ve found the perfect place for your niche, use a razor knife or a saw to cut out the wallboard to the niche manufacturer’s specifications. We suggest making a small hole with a razor knife first. Check to make sure that nothing exists in the cavity. Then cut. 

With the hole cut, apply the glue. Put it on the wall — not the niche. You will find out that handling a caulked niche can be a mess. Ever hear the old saying “paint travels”? Well, caulking and adhesive does too. Some manufacturers suggest a special adhesive for their niches. If that’s not the case, we suggest silicone caulk. Clear is good. It sticks well, can easily be cleaned with alcohol and will readily fill the irregular void that typically is created between a straight object (like the back of a niche) and a wall’s wavy surface. 

Be prepared to have someone apply pressure to the surface of the niche to hold it solidly in place while 6-penny or 8-penny bright finish nails are used to permanently attach it to the wall. The nail should be long enough to go through the niche and the wallboard, and then penetrate into the stud approximately 1 inch. Wipe off the excess caulk, putty the nail holes and let everything dry. 

If you are even modestly careful when you cut the drywall, you will find that no wall painting will be necessary, and you will have to paint only if you want to change the color of the niche. 

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For more home improvement tips and information visit our Web site at www.onthehouse.com. 

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