Features

Questions and Answers

James and Morris Carey
Friday February 15, 2002

Q. Gary asks: Why is water seeping around the bottom of the water closet and how do we remedy it? 

A. With a toilet, if water is anywhere but in the tank or the bowl it’s reason for concern. Water at the base of a toilet can be caused by a hairline crack in the tank or bowl; a sweating tank due to condensation; leaking supply water (valve, hose or connections); leaks where the tank connects to the bowl or a faulty wax ring. The wax ring is used as a water seal between the discharge port at the underside of the toilet and the toilet flange connected to the sewer pipe. Over time the wax ring can become compressed — especially if the toilet is not securely anchored to the toilet flange — and a leak results. 

Use a few drops of food coloring in the tank and bowl to determine if the toilet is cracked. If the dye test reveals a crack, replace the tank or the entire toilet. If the leak is confined to the area immediately around the base of the bowl, chances are good that a new wax ring is needed. You’ll need to remove the toilet to replace the wax ring. 

Begin this project by arming yourself with an open-ended wrench, a crescent wrench, a pair of pliers, a screwdriver and a hacksaw. Turn off the water supply to the toilet. Turn the little valve that is located below and behind the toilet clockwise until it stops. Flush the toilet and remove any water that may remain in the tank or bowl with a small cup and a sponge. Once all the water has been removed, disconnect the water-supply line at the base of the tank. This can be achieved by backing off the nut in a counterclockwise direction. 

Unfasten the toilet from the floor. Most residential toilets are anchored with a couple of fasteners called closet bolts. You might find that your toilet has four of these. They are concealed with either porcelain or plastic caps. A toilet rarely is anchored to the floor. In most cases, it is bolted to the toilet flange. 

Pry the closet bolt caps off with a screwdriver and remove the nuts that remain with an open-ended wrench, turning counterclockwise. We suggest you have another person help you lift and carry out the toilet. 

What remains on the floor will be some of the wax ring. Remove it with a putty knife. 

With the toilet on its side, affix the new wax ring to the exhaust port of the toilet with the plastic throat facing away from the toilet. Replace the old and rusted closet bolts with news ones. Attach the new ones to the closet flange in an upright position. 

Pick the toilet up and, without allowing the bottom to touch the floor, align the holes in the base of the toilet with the closet bolts, and gently lower it until it completely seats. Install the nuts onto the closet bolts being careful not to tighten them too much; doing so could result in a broken toilet.  

Place the bolt caps over the nuts. If the bolt caps don’t properly seat, chances are the bolts are too long. Shorten them by cutting with a hacksaw. Reattach the water supply line to the tank with the new nut and washer provided with the toilet and turn the water on. 

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