Features

Q. Volker asks: How do I change a leaking toilet tank? 

A. The first step in repairing a leaking toilet tank is to determine where the leak is located and what is causing it. There are several possible causes, the most obvious of which is a hairline crack in the tank — often virtually undetectable. Other possible causes are: the four factory penetrations at the bottom of the tank where connections are made to the water supply, where the tank is bolted to the bowl, and at the location where water flows from the tank to the bowl. 

Each of these locations has a rubber washer designed to ensure a watertight connection. Over time, the connections might become loose or the washers might deteriorate, requiring replacement. 

An easy means of determining the location of the leak is by placing a few drops of food coloring into the toilet tank. Wait about an hour and return to the scene to search for colored water at the outside of the tank. If the leak is at one of the factory penetrations, use a wrench or a screwdriver to tighten the connection. Dry the area and return in another hour to see if the problem has been solved. If it hasn’t been, try replacing the washers. 

Drain the tank by turning off the water supply and flushing the toilet. Disconnect the water supply and remove the two bolts that anchor the tank to the bowl. Clean the connections and openings with a soft dry cloth and install new washers. Also install a new washer where the tank discharges into the bowl. 

Before you tear out your toilet tank, be certain that your leak isn’t a sweating tank. This condition is caused by condensation that occurs on the outside surface of the tank due to the difference in temperature between the water in the toilet tank and the air in the room. If the problem is, in fact, condensation, it can be remedied in one of two ways — with a tank liner or a tempering valve. 

The tank liner consists of a rubber membrane that is installed in the interior surface of the tank as a layer of insulation. The tempering valve is a bit more complicated. It requires removing the existing water supply valve and replacing it with a model that mixes a small amount of hot water so that the water in the tank isnt so cold. This eliminates condensation. The former is a common do-it-yourself project, whereas the latter often requires a plumber. 

Q. Shirisha asks: I open any tap in my house and I hear train-like noises. It also feels as if air is being sucked into the tap! When we use two taps the noise disappears. Using two taps is not a permanent solution. So tell us what kind of problem we are facing and how to fix it. 

A. If faucets screech when you turn them on and pipes hum when water’s running, chances are you have a bad main-inlet valve or a bad pressure-regulator valve. Water enters a home at only one point. If all faucets groan and howl the same throughout the house, the main-inlet valve is bad where water enters your home. Over time, rubber gaskets can become brittle. Running water rushes in, passing over the gasket and acts as does a reed in a clarinet. Pipes carry the sound to every faucet and fixture, making it hard to pin down the source. In this case, check the main-inlet valve, but if it screeches at only one location, check the gasket of that particular faucet. Repairs can be done with basic tools. 

Q. Fran asks: I have well water in my home and of course the water smells. Someone told me if you take out the “rod” in the water heater, the water won’t smell anymore. But what rod is it and how do I get it out? 

A. The problem occurs when the metal rod in glass-lined water heaters (used to improve the life expectancy of the glass lining) combines with waterborne sulfate-reducing bacteria, resulting in the production of hydrogen sulfide. The water is not dangerous to consume, but is difficult to swallow. It smells like rotten eggs. 

Solution 1: Replace the magnesium metal rod (cathodic protection anode) with one made of aluminum (it might not be available for your brand of water heater). The aluminum rod produces 30 percent less current, and therefore generates less hydrogen gas while causing enough current to adequately protect the glass liner. 

Solution 2: Find the point of origin of the sulfate-reducing bacteria (SRB), and eliminate it. SRB is most common in new-water supply pipes contaminated by soil during construction. The soil carrying the SRB eventually ends up as solids at the bottom of the water heater. A thorough flushing to remove the dirt, then a second flushing with a dash of chlorine, and finally a third flush — to clean — should do the trick. Hydrogen gas without the presence of SRB will go unnoticed. SRB is not so easy to remove if your water company pumps the bacteria into your home along with the water. This will often be the case as increasingly water districts are reducing or ceasing their use of chlorine. Sulfate-reducing bacteria are devastated by chlorination, but will thrive otherwise. 

It is possible to inadvertently contaminate your own water supply by allowing sulfate-reducing bacteria — not to mention other more dangerous bugs — to enter your water system at your own property. This can happen through your sprinklers if you’re not using anti-siphon sprinkler valves, which prevent backwash. Backwash could also result when a water main in your neighborhood is turned off while your garden hose is running in a muddy puddle. 

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