Features

Back when the war on Iraq was but a gleam in Paul Wolfowitz’s eye, back when the French and Germans stood in solidarity with their American friends, back just days after Sept. 11, I stumbled into Caffe Venezia looking for some kind of sustenance. 

Jeff Wizig, the general manager, stopped to ask how everything was, and we ended up talking. Jeff and I talked openly about our dread, our grief and our hope. I left feeling heartened that even though the world had changed, I still could depend upon the kindness of strangers. 

More than likely, you’ve celebrated a birthday or anniversary at Venezia already. Open since 1980, its festive dining room, an artful creation of a Venetian piazza (complete with fountain, balconies and changing clothesline), lends itself to merry-making, as does its full bar.  

“I see Caffe Venezia as a place where people can enjoy good food with friends and family in a fun, exuberant setting,” says owner John Solomon. “We’re passionate about Italian food. Virtually all the pasta is made in-house, and all the sauces are from scratch, using only the freshest ingredients.”  

What you might not know is that Venezia now offers a completely revamped lunch menu, as well as an awfully good Sunday brunch. I’ll start with the brunch, as that’s my particular jones. 

Refreshingly, no huddled masses, yearning for a table, greet you on the sidewalk, as Venezia accepts reservations — awfully nice when the weather is inclement and you have relatives in tow. The customary eggs and pancakes are available, but with some nice touches. For example, Venezia’s delightful take on Eggs Benedict features eggs on roasted portobellos with white truffle oil. Instead of the usual oatmeal, you can order semolina porridge with medjool dates, sunflower seeds and ginger. I loved the Dutch Baby, a slightly crisp crepe served with baked apples and brown sugar, while a companion raved about his smoked salmon, caramelized onion and chive fritatta. Prices are very reasonable.  

The new fixed-price lunch menu is one of the best deals in town. Soup or salad, a choice of three entrees and a beverage will set you back a mere $8. A recently offered Insalata di Rucola, arugula and mushrooms tossed in sherry vinaigrette with fried onions, pancetta and sieved egg, had me wanting to lick my plate. A neighboring table gushed over their Pesce San Pietro, a St. Peter’s fish served with pinenut-lavender butter, while I savored my orecchiette with garlic sausage, grilled yellow tomato, chili flakes, marjoram and ricotta salata.  

Solomon founded the “How Berkeley Can You Be” parade, an opportunity, he says, “for Berkeley to celebrate itself and to realize we have more in common with one another than against.”  

He met his wife, Lois, in People’s Park in 1969, and has given one-third ownership of the restaurant to three longtime employees. He also kindly gave me the coveted Malfatti recipe.