Features

I still remember the taste of my first scone. It was in 1969 at a bed and breakfast in the south of England. Like my first kiss, the scone was a bit dry but, nonetheless, a thrill. 

Alas, when I returned to Berkeley, a decent scone was not to be found. There were, however, other charms that kept me here. Cars that screeched to a halt the instant I stepped out in a crosswalk, affordable rents and home prices, and pretty co-eds who greeted my stares with smiles. Then, of course, there was the weather, one gorgeous, sunny day after another, with me allergy-free. Whether my Brooklyn-bred immune system was too confused or too happy to make trouble, I wouldn’t know. But being able to enjoy a beautiful day without itchy eyes and a dysfunctional sneeze alarm was rapturous. 

In 21st century Berkeley, polite drivers are scarce, the co-eds pay me scant attention and I don’ t have to tell you about the cost of housing. However, the miraculous procession of sunny, allergy-free days persists and scones are ubiquitous—with Berkeley surely in the running for Scone Capital of the World. 

For those new to the city and ensconced residents less avid in their pursuit of scones than myself, below are several of my favorite scone purveyors. 

Sconehenge Bakery & Café 

Sconehenge patrons generally show up for the Mexican-influenced, homestyle breakfasts and lunches and the major portion of the bakery’ s business is wholesale (look for their stuff at the Berkeley Bowl and other markets). However, below a big blowup photo of the Neolithic Stonehenge monoliths (who stand not far from the site of my scone initiation), there is a case of baked goods for onsite consumption or takeout. Scan the case for scones and there will usually be a few of the fruit and berry persuasion that won’ t disappoint. Yet, more often than not, I’ ll sample one of the whole wheat creations, which lets me indulge somewhat guilt-free. 

Cheese Board Collective 

Any list of what makes Berkeley Berkeley would certainly have the Cheese Board near (or at) the top. A worker-owned collective, its roots go back to the fall of 1967, following the Summer of Love. Together with its comrade in comestibles, the Pizza Collective, the Cheese Board worker-owners continue to provide the masses with countless varieties of cheese, sensational sui generis pizzas, superb breads and sweet treats, including superior scones. On their pastry racks, you’ ll regularly find their trademark currant, oat and corn-cherry scones, as well as a scone of the day, featuring such wonders as pear-ginger and chocolate chip. If you’ re plagued by ambivalence, I suggest to simply seize the scone that looks largest. 

Nabolom Bakery 

Another of Berkeley’ s worker-owned collectives, Nabolom was founded in 1976 and has hung on through various travails as an Elmwood neighborhood treasure. Nabolom is perhaps most famous for its transcendent challah, consciousness-raising cinnamon twists and legendary cheese danishes, but the collective does offer an assortment of excellent scones definitely worth a try. Specialties include blackberry, blueberry lemon, cranberry orange and a unique graham scone, rumored to be the sacrament of a local sconehead cult. 

Phoenix Pastificio 

Particularly renown for its artisan pastas, pasta sauces and popular, lunch-only restaurant, the Phoenix also carries a distinctive selection of breads and quality pastries. And, inspired perfectionist that he is, Eric Sartenaer, Master of The Phoenix, doubtless left no scone unturned in his search for a specimen worthy of his establishment. What he’ s presented us with as his signature scone is a deluxe line of hazelnut concoctions which clearly rise to the high standards of Gourmet Ghetto gastronomes. 

Fourth Street Scones 

The Fourth Street shopping district is Berkeley at its classiest. But, although I belong to the shop-a-phobic class, I will frequent Fourth Street for the noshing and people-watching possibilities. On Fourth, my two habitual scone suppliers are Bette’ s-To-Go (the takeout annex of Bette’ s Oceanview Diner) and The Pasta Shop. 

Want to experience a Berkeley moment of bliss? Transport yourself down to Fourth and buy a copy of the “American Splendor” anthology at Cody’s, pick up one of Bette’ s classic currant scones or a cornmeal blueberry scone at The Pasta Shop (or maybe both), get a cup of Peet’ s brew of the day (be sure to bring your own ceramic mug, preferably bearing the logo of a surviving dotcom), snag a prime spot to sit and savor the schadenfreude of East Coasters’ tsuris. 

Cheese Board Collective: 1504 Shattuck Ave., 

549-3183 

Nabolom Bakery: 2708 Russell St. (near College), 

845-2253 

Phoenix Pastificio: 1786 Shattuck Ave., 883-0783 

Sconehenge Bakery & Café: 787 Shattuck Ave., 

845-5168 

Bette’ s-To-Go: 1807 Fourth St., 548-9494 

The Pasta Shop: 1786 Fourth St., 528-1786