Election Section

Years ago I had a duck who would have killed for a tomato. I almost feel the same way about scalloped potatoes. When the potatoes have grown in one’s garden, the pleasure is doubled. Yet each year I fail to achieve the maximum crop, in spite of having tried nearly every known method of cultivation. Could it possibly be that potatoes have their limits—about two pounds per plant—and never will fill a twenty gallon garbage can with tubers, as is so often stated? 

My current way of growing these essential staples, rich in vitamin C, is to construct cylinders of wire approximately three feet across and five feet high, anchored with tall stakes. I place a small whole seed potato in the center of each cylinder, and cover it with four inches of commercial potting soil. As the potato leaves shoot up, I toss into the cylinder a mixture of soil and hay, so that just the upper leaves peek out. After a while I grow tired of doing this and apart from hosing the leaves from time to time, forget about them. 

When flower buds appear, I grope around the base of the plant, whose leaves by this time tower above the cylinder, and invariably unearth a couple of whopping potatoes and a few baby ones. The small ones, still attached, I leave to continue to grow. I make sure that all tubers are well covered, because in sunlight they become green and inedible. When the leaves have died I dig the entire crop and store it in the refrigerator. The earth is superbly conditioned by then, ready for a different vegetable, the wire having protected the plants from wildlife. Be sure to avoid planting a vegetable from the same family, Solanaceae. Crop rotation helps to prevent diseases.  

Seed potatoes appear in local nurseries in January. Choose small ones, put them in a brown paper bag in a cool shady place (such as a garage or north porch) and leave them for a month. If they become soft, so much the better. This procedure is called chitting, from an early English word for a young thing, a shoot, a sprout. Sprouted or not, plant them in February if weather permits, certainly no later than St. Patrick’s Day. Staggered plantings are possible through mid-July and if the garden is frost-free, fall planting is possible too. Depending on variety (red potatoes perform well in my cool garden) and number of plants, self-sufficiency can be year-round.  

As for the scalloped potatoes, when the mania overtakes me, I slice a large red potato on the mandolin side of my metal box cheese grater. I arrange the slices on a microwavable plate and dot them sparingly with butter and oil. Cover the plate. Microwaved for three minutes and lightly salted, these potatoes hit the spot. If a crisp golden crust is desired, they brown rapidly on the stove top. The microwave, an underused, underrated precision tool, efficient and economical, is an ideal means for a heartwarming bite. 

For a more substantial version, parboil slightly thicker slices, anoint sparingly with milk and small pieces of sheep’s feta cheese, and microwave on a covered plate as before. (Parboiling is not essential. It speeds cooking time and improves absorption.) Turn them over if not done, for a few more minutes. The cheese combines with the milk to make a rich sauce. This dish makes a satisfying light lunch, served with salad. 

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